THE PROCESS
LOCATION
The vineyard is located in the località ‘Pratini’ in the municipality of Suvereto, in the southern part of Tuscany, approximately 20 kilometres from the coast, just north of the island of Elba. A plot with huge potential, discovered after a very thorough soil analysis.
VINEYARD
The land was bought back in 2006 and was subsequently left open to breathe for a year, up to a metre in depth. The initial planting was done in 2007. The vineyard boasts an impressive surface area of 1.3 hectares. The soil is a combination of clay, old stones and sand. This has resulted in excellent drainage. The vineyard is located 300 metres above sea level. The vineyard management is in conversion to organic. The producers have already been working in line with this method, but they’re not (yet) certified. ‘We follow nature’. The first (small) harvest was completed in 2010. [The river Cornia flows along the vineyard, leaves silt behind, very fertile, calcium is good for red grapes]
GRAPE VARIETY
After extensive research, the makers of Segreto chose cabernet sauvignon: a classic French grape variety that has long been planted worldwide and enjoys international recognition.
Cabernet sauvignon originates from the Gironde in southwestern France. The first written evidence dates from the period 1763-1777, when it was still known as gros cavernet sauvignon. It wasn’t until 1840 that cabernet sauvignon was written under its current name. Genetically, this grape variety is a ‘child’ of cabernet franc and sauvignon blanc. It is a fast-growing plant that buds late in the season, and its grapes ripen relatively late. The clusters and grapes are small, with a thick, blue skin.
Since 1820, cabernet sauvignon has been planted in Italy. First in Piedmont, and later in many more areas of the country. Today, the grape is found all over Italy, from Alto Adige to Sicily. Around 1960, the vine arrived in Maremma, soon followed by global success—usually in blends—in several places in Tuscany, with Bolgheri as the undisputed epicenter of complex red wines known as Super Tuscans.
APPELLATION
Segreto is located within the borders of Suvereto DOCG (4). Although once a Val di Cornia subregion, it’s had its own appellation since 2011. However, Segreto has decided on a different quality label. Possibly a little headstrong, but a conscious choice which will allow us to chart our own course. Hence the IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) qualification on the label. Definitely very appropriate within the context of wines which have been produced in a specific region, using international grape varieties.
PLANTING
The grape plants are tied and pruned in line with the following method: cordone speronato (spurred cordon/cordon trained and spur-pruned). Quite typical for central northern Italy. Or rather: Cordon de Royat.
(MICRO)CLIMATE
The sea’s influence is very important for the cooling process. The wind which blows across the seas has also brought sand and salt with it for millions of years, which plays a small role too. The vineyard is located approximately 20 kilometres from the sea.
VITICULTURE
Pruning is done in February/March as a result of climate change, as this is better for phenolic ripening: pruning at a later stage, growing at a later stage. Otherwise the grapes will simply ripen too early. Green harvesting (reducing the number of bunches and any excess leaves) is done in the spring. Harvesting takes place in September/October. This is done manually, in 10/12 kilo containers. This is usually done in three sessions: the southern part is the first to ripen. The grapes are then quickly taken to the winery before fermentation can start spontaneously.
VINIFICATION/AGEING
Spontaneous fermentation using native yeasts in stainless steel vats. Cabernet sauvignon is a grape variety with a lot of tannins, so the skin maceration is relatively short before pressing. The juice is then transferred, with minimal sulfites, into 225-liter barriques from Tonnellerie Taransaud, a renowned cooperage founded in 1940 in Cognac. Since 2000, they also have a division in Beaune, Burgundy, supplying the region’s top wineries. They are part of Chêne et Cie.
The toasting of the oak is adjusted per vintage, with a choice between medium or light—never heavy. Each vintage is carefully evaluated to find the right balance between tannins, the fruit of the grape, and the influence of the wood. This ultimately determines the wine’s aroma, flavor, mouthfeel, and color. Making the right decisions at the right moments makes all the difference. Since 2015, the standard aging in wood has been set at 24 months. Finally, the wine matures for at least another 12 months in the bottle.
APPROACH/INNOVATION
The wines were already sublime during the first 10 years, but it takes a long time before they’re ready to drink. This period is shorter now, with the focus on soft, noble tannins. We have increasingly worked towards those supple tannins over the years, especially since the arrival of Graziana Grassini in 2014. She has introduced a multitude of innovations, like cleaning the barriques every three months: washing and drying in order to prevent any possible brettanomyces (bacteria) and other wine defects. Segreto 2015 is her first vintage and 2017 is being considered a top year for the time being.
TEAM
All decisions are made by the team and collaborations are always focussed on quality. Producer Giuseppe Brancatelli, a Sicilian by birth, is at the base of this team, who boasts an impressive wine and catering career in the Netherlands. He owns Azienda Agricola Biologica Brancatelli, close to the Segreto vineyard and is very familiar with the ins-and-outs of the Tuscan landscape. The team also includes Gabriele Cesolini, an agronomist, and Alessandro Accetta, our in-house oenologist, who is responsible for the vineyards and winery. The final team member is external oenologist and biologist Graziana Grassini, the lady who single-handedly designed the most famous Bolgheri wine ever: Sassicaia.